Friday, November 27, 2015

Connection - Berlin!

Welcome to Indelible Adventures!   Thanks for dropping by and I hope you enjoy this week's blog.

You can also subscribe to my weekly distribution list via the Indelible Adventures website or browse my latest photos and upcoming adventures and travel tips.  In addition, if you'd like to follow me on social media here are the links.


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I must admit that I wasn’t sure what to expect on my trip to Berlin last weekend.  The city itself is a mish-mash of old and new, with a juxtaposition of the austere with the most modern and architecturally beautiful buildings all jumbled together, often next to each other.  It’s clearly a function of two very significant periods in history that have touched Berlin over the last century.  

Firstly the second world war which is still evident in the historical reminders that you find all around the city, the ruins of a church, or the wall plaques to tell of the notable places or ghastly reminders of the moments in history (Kristallnacht and the burning of the central synagogue), or the clearly evident bullet holes, albeit patched up in the surviving buildings.

The second set of reminders followed close on the heels of the war with the stand off between east and west, when the city became the front line of the Cold War with the erection of the Berlin Wall. Its obvious when you walk the streets and neighborhoods on either side of the Wall where you are, just by looking at the architecture.  I found that in the old eastern sector of the city the buildings were more utilitarian and with the same uniform design – can you say 1960’s ugly?  Whereas in the west the buildings have a more eclectic range of designs and architecture that are some of the most stunning that Europe has to offer.

Indelible Tip #1:  From a historical perspective it’s a veritable treasure trove of museums, with many of them being free.  My recommendation is be selective and choose ahead of time because there are so many great museums to explore. In addition I would always recommend an audio guide for a small fee as they really enhance the experience. I found them useful anyway… J   

I’m not sure if you’ve ever heard of Daniel Libeskind, but he is considered to be amongst the brightest and arguably most accomplished architects of our time.  He designed the Jewish Museum in Berlin and created a "tour-de-force" that connects you with the building and all that it represents. 

It’s one of those places that impacts you from the moment you begin the journey into the museum. As you walk down the steps you’re confronted with a long, desolate and featureless corridor.  Making your way along the corridor into the unknown you find yourself in the Holocaust Tower and gripped but the cold, confined and dark space – almost suffocating.  Wow!

The other amazing exhibit was the one created by Menashe Kadishman, the Israeli artist, entitled Memory Void or Shalekhet (Fallen Leaves).  Approximately 10,000 thick steel plates make up the floor in this space, but as you make your way across the space the plates clank, groan and grind under your feet - very disconcerting to be sure. 

Stopping part way across the exhibit I stood transfixed by the faces around me and the sounds that emanated from them, a profound and enormous sadness washed over me as I stood there taking it all in.  I have no words to describe the feelings; all I know is that it touched my heart…

Indelible Tip #2: Take your time as you explore, and whether it’s in a museum or on the street slow down, stop and take it all in.  I find that creating indelible memories starts with the process of engaging your senses.  As you know from my previous stories I often reach out and touch what I’m looking at, or sometimes, if I’m close enough endeavor to smell what I’m looking at (yes, I know it sounds a little weird J) but the act of connecting your senses is the trick to remembering with clarity the moments that make up our lives.  So choose which sense or combination of senses work best for you and give it a try.  Describe in your head what you're seeing, touching, smelling, feeling or sensing - a truly powerful experience!

As I strolled through Berlin I was drawn in by two fascinating buildings (1) Reichstag (parliament building) and the (2) Brandenburg Tor (gate), which are both close in proximity to one other but also were on the front line of the Cold War as they were physically hard up against the Berlin Wall.  Seeing photographs of these buildings during the time prior to the Berlin Wall coming down, all you can see is a vast no-mans land (200 meter) or “death zone” (free fire zone) which encompassed both buildings.

Fortunately for us today, each of them have been fully restored with the Reichstag now once again the parliament building for Germany.  Definitely take the tour up to the top of the dome - its spectacular!  The Brandenburg Tor (gate) is the focal point for every visitor to this beautiful city and one of the most photographed locations in all of Germany.

Indelible Tip #3:  I stayed in the Kurfurstendamm neighborhood, which is located near the Zoological gardens just south east of the city center.  This upmarket part of town seems to have the best of everything Berlin has to offer in that it has wonderfully appointed hotels, fantastic shopping, and access to some of the best public transportation in the world. 

If I wasn’t walking I rode the bus (route 100 to the Reichstag), which was a 10 min ride from my hotel or took U and S-bahn (train service) to Alexandraplatz all for the same fare.  I found it to be incredible cheap (€2.70), and easy to navigate.

Although it took me 30 years to get to Berlin I packed a lot into my four days, and feel like I really connected to the heart and soul of Berlin.  

I know you're all itching to find out how many photos I took…right???  Actually quite modest by my standards in that I only shot just over 2000 in the four days, however, this was intentional in that I wanted to spend more time being "in the moment" and soaking it all in during my visit.  J

If you get the chance to visit Berlin...  Take it - its wunderbar!


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“Hanoi Posting”

A series of micro-stories by Terence Wallis

Episode 21: For the Revolution

Anh held Mai as the orgasm slowly subsided; her breath slowly recovering from the ragged gulps and cries of passion that echoed around their bedroom just moments before.  

Anh’s tongue slowly tracing the length of Mai’s stomach from her glistening lips toward her belly button, the saltiness of her skin turned Anh on as she slid her body along Mai’s. Pausing to suck on her hardened nipples, and circle them slowly as she looked into Mai’s beautiful green eyes.  Anh was always struck with Mai’s stunning Eurasian looks, her sparkling green eyes were hypnotic not only for Anh but for everyone she met.

Mai smiled a look of complete love and contentment as she reached for Anh.  They kissed deeply as Mai rolled Anh onto her back and sat astride her thighs, slowing grinding into her while reaching to explore her beckoning womanhood. Mai always knew exactly how to touch her to bring her to a shattering orgasm, often bringing her to the edge time and time again before Anh would beg her to release her pent up passion.

Afterwards Mai took a long, slow drag on her cigarette before passing it to Anh, this post coital cigarette felt heavenly after such powerful orgasms.  The soft caresses of the overhead fan felt refreshing cool on their sweating bodies as it slowly revolved overhead and a deep feeling of contentment engulfed them both as they lay on the damp sheets.

Anh had never felt any jealously because deep down she knew Mai loved her and that she'd always be hers but it came as a surprise to Mai when Anh suggested that she should take advantage of her beauty and popularity.

Mai had always been the center of attention where ever she went, but more and more she found herself in the company of the foreigners who had started to frequent Hanoi since the normalization of relations with the West some five years before.  

At first Mai had been a little reluctant, but Anh had persisted saying that this was also part of the revolution and that exacting money from rich foreigners for the pleasure of her company was both good for the country but also could provide her with a sound income, especially now that Uncle Duong had fallen out of favour with the current ruling class.

Surprisingly, there had never been an issue with her foreign suitors; they were only too willing to pay for Mai's company.  Initially Mai had been opposed to being intimate with her patrons, but when they doubled and often trebled the amount they gave her for her company how could she resist their advances especially as it ensured that she lived the type of lifestyle that she had grown accustom to.  

Anh had been instrumental in helping Mai get started by providing a couple of acquaintances she knew to act as her bodyguards. These "friends" always ensured Mai would be remunerated appropriately and treated in the manner which was fitting for a woman of her stature and beauty. 

On the rare occasion that one of her suitors needed some encouragement to provide payment, they appeared out of thin air and often convinced them that they should actually pay double the rate just for the pleasure of Mai's company.  Few dared...

This arrangement flourished under Anh oversight, leaving Mai feeling indebted to Anh for her love and support, not only for helping her start a successful high-class escort service but also for her deep love and unconditional affection, Mai felt safe with Anh and knew that she would protect her no matter what.

Even with all this, Mai felt like something was missing from her life and had a deep longing that she couldn't quite explain.  Most days she'd put it down to missing her mother and father, but the yearnings were elusive and even when focusing in on her memories of her parents she still felt unfulfilled deep within her core.


Next week:  Episode 22:  Treasured memories

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This week's selection of photos is from Berlin.  Enjoy!

At my hotel lobby as I was sipping a glass of red wine

Brandenburg Tor during a snow shower at 4:00 pm - yep it's already close to dark

A favorite photo spot, even in the snow

A little bokeh style

The sculpture outside the Jewish cemetery to commemorate the ghastly atrocities that occurred here
this location was used as the collection point for all transports to the concentrations camps
for the jews of Berlin and they were herded into this very small space to wait their fate...

Berlin's main synagogue - now restored from its burning in 1938
which marked the beginning of Kristallnacht 

The Natural History museum which was once the main stage for National Socialist rallies

Berlin Dome with the TV tower in the background

Ornate metal work on the bridge over the Spree river in Central Berlin
The East Side Gallery - the remains of the Berlin Wall

There is about 1.3 km that remain of the Berlin Wall - now all dedicated to the East Side Gallery

Amazing designs and art work adorns the wall


Even Bart Simpson...

Crazy good work




This is painted on an adjacent phone systems box
One of my favorites...

The infamous "death zone" - this 200 meter free fire zone protected the wall from would be escapes


The Reichstag from the bus on my trip into the city





Watching a movie at the park - just another saturday afternoon

My little mate that found on a large and imposing statue - on the Ephraim bridge

A bolt of cloth that was retrieved at the end of the war and now sits
in the Jewish museum - the sight of it made the hair on my neck stand on end.

The Memory Void exhibit at the Jewish Museum - 10,000 metal faces

The long corridor in the Jewish Museum - with the names of all the concentration camps stenciled into
the walls

Inside the claustrophobic Holocaust Tower at the Jewish Museum - cold, dark
and cramped

Checkpoint Charlie - now nothing more than a tourist trap, but once the crossroads
of the Cold War



Cool truck on the street promoting Maximilians brewery

The double row of stones is the only remainder of the Berlin Wall
between the Reichstag and the Brandenburg Tor


Inside the Reichstag dome - soooooo cool!




The Brandenburg Tor from the dome at the top of the Reichstag - bokeh style,  not your eyes


Berlin and the river Spree from the top of the dome at the Reichstag

The stonework on top of the Reichstag has now all been restored to its original glory 


Friday, November 20, 2015

The Essentials!

Welcome to Indelible Adventures!   Thanks for dropping by and I hope you enjoy this week's blog.

You can also subscribe to my weekly distribution list via the Indelible Adventures website or browse my latest photos and upcoming adventures and travel tips.  In addition, if you'd like to follow me on social media here are the links.



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I guess by now you know that I love to travel…  Although to be fair I still struggle with the endless security and sometimes-nonsensical bureaucracy that we all have to bear when we travel by plane, but given the alternative we all grin and bear it.  Best to keep your head down and shut up, lest they decide that you’re too troublesome to fly – heaven forbid!

Admittedly I struggle with all the bits leading up to getting on the plane, however once I’m on board I begin to relax and start to enjoy the journey.  Let’s face it, it’s a pain in the bum until you settle into your seat and take some deep breaths and sort yourself out and determine what you’re going to do to keep yourself amused on your flight.  Last nights flight to London was no exception, initially I had decided that I’d begin writing my blog, and if time permitted perhaps watch a movie.   Who needs sleep on an overnight flight?

As it turns out - I do!   J


No sooner than had settled into my seat, still at the gate mind you, I put my head back, closed my eyes and took a couple of deep breaths…  You go it, next thing I knew I woke with a start as the plane began its run down the runway.  I guess I was more tired than I had initially thought.  Okay, no worries I’ll move to plan B I thought to myself.

Plan B consisted of doing Sudoku (yes, I'm addicted!) until after the meal, then writing…  

Hhhmmm - the best laid plans eh?  By the time dinner was done all I wanted to do was sleep, which brings me to one of the most important things I always carry with me when I travel, in fact I always have one in my backpack's front pouch.

Indelible Tip #1:  I find that to break the jet lag cycle I sleep when my body tells me it needs to rest, and often times that doesn’t fit neatly with the cabin crew’s plan for meal times or a fully lite cabin, so I carry an eye shade with me.  Then I can decide how and when I want to sleep or at least rest.

Given the amount of flying I’ve done in my lifetime, which equates to well over 2 million air miles I’ve found that I have a few tips that make my trip more enjoyable, or at least bearable.

Indelible Tip #2: Another “must have” is a set of noise cancelling earphones.  They serve a couple of important functions.  Firstly, you get to hear the entertainment system without the whoosh of jet engines reverberating in your head, which is especially important when you’re on a long haul flight.  Second, when you couple these with the eyeshade its amazing how peaceful flying can be and how much easier it is to actually sleep.  This is great if you want to minimize the impact of jet lag when you get to your destination.

This weekend I’m in Berlin.  Yep, I decided earlier in the week that because I didn’t have Zach and Sami this weekend that I’d jump on a plane and go somewhere I hadn’t been before.  I had a few options that were in the mix:  Tokyo, Shanghai, Dubai, and Berlin. 

After triangulating airfares, travel times and total costs Berlin was the best option.  So it was a relatively easy choice to make, and to be fair Berlin had lost out on a couple of prior occasions most notably when I was backpacking around the world in 1985.  I remember lining up at the East German embassy in Paris to get an entry visa (this was prior to the wall coming down).  I needed a visa to travel through East Germany to get to Berlin but the line up was just too long and I had little patience for the wait, so I decided that I’d do it some other time during my trip…   Quite a wait really - just 30 years!!!


Indelible Tip #3:  Drink lots of water on your flights.  It’s crazy how dehydrated we get when we’re flying.  The guy next to me last night on my flight from Toronto to London, polished off four small bottles of wine and four small bottles of scotch and that was only over dinner.  He was pounding them back. Great at the time I'm sure, but this morning his head must have been hurting pretty badly because before we landed all he could do was hold his head in his hands and rub his forehead and eyes. Yikes - no thanks!

As well, when I fly I generally get up a couple of times and stretch.  I know it sounds a bit dorky, but trust me you feel a whole lot better afterwards.  I generally head toward the toilet or exit row area, as there is often some room to stretch.  Nothing too elaborate by the way, just some leg stretches, squats etc...

All I know is that these few things really help me when I'm flying.  Perhaps its worth giving them a try next time you're on a plane?   Have a fun weekend!   My weekend is going to be spent exploring and portfolio building.  J

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“Hanoi Posting”

A series of micro-stories by Terence Wallis

Episode 20: Uncle Duong

After their initial meeting Mai and Anh had become inseparable, spending all of their free time together much to the chagrin of Mai’s uncle who she lived with.  Mai’s parents had been killed during an air raid on Hanoi over Christmas 1971 when Mai was nine, and now lived with Uncle Duong in a large villa in the Ba Đình district.  

At first Uncle Duong was wary of Anh, as an important member of the Revolutionary council he had to be very careful of his alliances, even with a young girl.  He had his bodyguards follow her, and then her parents and neighbours in the Chợ Đồng Xuân questioned at length but found nothing untoward.  Still sensing something unusual with Anh he decided to have one of his youngest but most reliable agents keep a close eye on the Thanh Van family.  

His agent became a fixture of the markets; day and night he kept tabs on the family and especially the daughter Anh reporting back everyday to his cadre leader what had transpired during the prior day.  He'd become an expert at surveillance and closely monitored the two beautiful girls and constantly looked for signs of subversive behaviour. 

It was clear that he enjoyed his new assignment, watching the two girls gave him enormous pleasure, and in moments of solitude he would often fantasize about being with them, his kisses and touch reciprocated until he climaxed. 

Like most young girls they constantly held hands wherever they went, but observed on occasion, as Anh would whisper in Mai’s ear that she would linger just that a moment too long.  It was something about the way she looked at her that gave away her feelings for Mai.  
He was torn between his assignment and his obvious attraction for the two beautiful women; he loved Mai’s inexorable beauty but was surprisingly drawn to Anh’s physicality and edginess. There was just something about the way she demanded respect from those around her that excited him.  

Anh had grown up in the Chợ Đồng Xuân and knew both the Old Quarter and the shopkeepers exceedingly well.  He'd followed her day and night, and what struck him most was the unusual level of deference the shopkeepers provided her, noting that they often gave her a slight bow when they met. 

Why would a shopkeeper bow to a young girl he wondered... 



Next week:  Episode 21:  For the Revolution 

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This week's selection of photos are from today in Berlin...many more to follow  Enjoy!


The Kaiser-Wilhelm Gedachtni-Kirche was badly bombed
during WWII and it was left as a monument and reminder
of the senseless war

The "Broken Chain" sculpture on Kurfurstenstr near my hotel

Lots of colorfully painted bears around the city...cool!

The great architecture on the Mexican Embassy on Klingelhofer
adjacent to the Tiergarten

More cool design and architecture - this time on the Embassies of the
Nordic Countries

Outside the Japanese Embassy at Hiroshima and Tiergarten

A segment of the old Berlin Wall in the grounds of an embassy on
the Tiergarten

Lake covered in green algae in the Tiergarten - sooooo green!

Tress reflected in a puddle 

Some of the 2711 stone pillars that make up the Holocaust Memorial - incredibly powerful and moving,
but the underground museum was even more so...

The pillars are of different sizes, and lined up over the natural contours
of the ground, which gives it the feeling of waves washing over you



These pillars must weigh tonnes - they're huge!

Something I ran into on my walk around town this afternoon - never goes out of style!

I'm booked into the Reichstag tomorrow morning for a tour of the dome

The Brandenburg Gate

As you can see they've had to repair the pillars after WWII - lots of bullet holes

The Reichstag building