Friday, January 29, 2016

Living the ex-pat life

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What does your National Day holiday mean to you?  For many its a day of celebration with family and friends irrespective of where you live. This past week we celebrated Australia Day (January 26th), and if you lived in Australia you'd be celebrating around the BBQ enjoying the summer warmth, but not so much here in Toronto...brrr!

For some of us who have settled in other countries our National Day is still and will always be a special day, which we undoubtedly celebrate no matter where we find ourselves. 

So what better way to celebrate Australia Day this year than at a local and iconic watering hole.  As an ex-pat living overseas (yes, I still see myself as Australian) important cultural days like this are often an opportunity to connect and in some cases reconnect with your community and friends.

Those new to Toronto will have undoubtedly heard through the grapevine or via their network that we have a strong Australian and New Zealand ex-pat community, along with many of the comforts of home…  Here are just a couple of my favourites:

Indelible Tip 1:  Hemingway’s (142 Cumberland Street) has been a mainstay in Toronto’s trendy and upscale Yorkville neighborhood for more than 35 years.  As you can imagine, that is some feat, especially given that traditionally the bar and restaurant game can be a fickle business and sometimes tend to turn over rather quickly.

Before our big Australia Day bash this week I met with co-owner Daimin Bodnar to find our why Hemingway’s had been so successful. 

Daimin said that he and his co-owner, Martin have always been focused on creating a "home away from home" atmosphere for those ex-pat Australians and New Zealanders traveling the world and who visit Toronto…whether its for a few days, a few years or a lifetime. A place you feel welcomed immediately.  I must admit its nice to feel at home when you're traveling, nothing is more satisfying that a friendly face, a familiar accent and some local food - seriously what could be better when your away from home?  

The second important point that Daimin made, and I think speaks to Hemingway’s longevity in that its long been considered as a Australian/New Zealand cultural center for local Torontonians as well, thus providing them with a glimpse into the people, culture and traditions from those downunder for over 35 years. Australians, New Zealanders and Canadians have always felt at home in each others company, and its certainly evident with the eclectic mix of patrons that I met while sipping my cold beer and celebrating Australia day. 

As an additional bonus, Hemingway's always televise large sporting events such as the Australian Football League grand final and the recent Rugby World Cup. Not surprisingly, Hemingway’s became the unofficial home of the Rugby world cup in Toronto, and not just for the Australian and New Zealand fans.  Daimin told me the story that during the Rugby world cup France was playing in a game and out of the blue over 200 French fans decided to descend on the bar to watch the game, which would have been fabulous if it hadn't been for the other 100 fans already there - apparently it was quite a raucous and fun filled day. Nice!

For those of you who are local in Toronto, next up is New Zealand’s National Day celebrations (Waitangi Day) on February 6th.   You’ll need to call ahead to reserve a spot…yep its going to be huge!   :-)

Indelible 2:  Familiar Foods   As I said Toronto has a strong and surprisingly vibrant ex-pat community, and with that influx has come some of the traditional fare from back home, including Vegemite (not my fav personally), Milo, Tim-Tams, Golden Syrup and meat pies to name but a few…  

Strangely many of these are now openly available in local supermarkets (Loblaw, Longos), whereas in the past we’d often be begging our families to ship us food parcels on a regular basis. 

In addition, Toronto has finally discovered the beauty of the Australian meat pie!  There are a number of wonderful little pie shops now operating very successfully in the city – The Pie Commission (935 Queensway), Kanga Australian Meat Pies (65 Duncan St) and the up and comer Wiseys Pies and Bakehouse (874 Eglinton Ave E). 

As an aside, a couple of years ago I was in Marietta, Georgia (USA) and discovered to my complete surprise the Australian Bakery Cafe in the towns square.  The food was amazing and just like being at home.  Definitely try the Bundaberg Ginger Beer (real old fashioned ginger beer that almost takes your breath away) - I was in heaven - so delicious!  

Indelible Tip 3:  Familiar sports and activities.  A little know fact is that Toronto is home to the largest Australian Rules football league outside Australia and has a men’s first and second division league competition, women’s league and youth program.  The vast majority of players now being Canadian, with the original league starting in 1989 of which I am proud to say that I was one of its founders. :-) 

This is the main competitive Australian Rules football league in Canada for men and women, and thus provides the majority of the Canadian National Team (Northwind) that competes at the Australian Rules International Cup for both men and women held every three years.   Not surprising, the Canadian women’s team are the current International Cup holders; the next International Cup is scheduled for 2017 in Melbourne at which more than 20 countries will compete for the title. 

If Aussie Rules isn’t your cup of tea, of course there’s Rugby!  Hemingway’s has been a big supporter and sponsor of Rugby Canada and the Nomads Junior Rugby club for many years as well - so lots of physical pursuits to get involved in.  

I retired many years ago after my body had taken enough physical abuse playing football, but to this day I still find it impossible to watch without thinking I could still play...well, my mind thinks it can but then my body laughs uncontrollably!  :-p

There is no question that coming to a new country and has been an amazingly rich experience, but I still crave the things from my childhood and I guess there is no getting around the fact that Toronto now has it all!


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“Hanoi Posting”

A series of fictional micro-stories by Terence Wallis

Episode 30: Reunited

Phuong waited at the Star the next morning at the usual time, but there was no sign of Bill.  He made his way to the office and waited but there was no word from Bill and by 10:00 am he began to worry.  

Parking his scooter in front of Bill's apartment complex on Cát Linh đường phố, he sensed something was amiss as the hair on the back of his neck began to tingle as he dismounted his scooter.  All of his training now kicked in as he flattened himself against the wall of the complex and stealthily made his way toward Bill's apartment.  Even from a his vantage point at the corner of open corridor he could see that Bill's apartment door was slightly ajar...

He now regretted not telling Bill about what he learned about Anh and the enquiries that Trung had been making about him during his absence.  Time stood still as he crept along the wall, pausing to listen after each few steps.  He slowly pushed the door with his fingers, keeping concealed against the wall incase there was someone inside.  The door slowly swung open, he peeked into the semi dark room and noticed the body on the floor.  

There was a pool of blood on the floor next to Bill, he crouched and slipped into the room softly.  His ears tuned to the slightest sound, she noted that the blood seemed to come from a superficial head wound on the back of his skull  He carefully rolled the unconscious body over to see if there were any other wounds, checking his vitals he surveyed the body but he seemed to be uninjured except for the deep gash in his head.  

He noted Bill's eye lids begin to flicker and slowly open, and in a croaky voice ask where he was.  Phuong peered into his face, until the glimmer of recognition passed over his face.  

It was then that Phuong noticed the slogan painted and smeared across the walls "leave our country you imperialist dog" in dripping red paint.

So this was the tactic they were using Phuong thought..." nghiệp dư "(amateurs) he thought to himself with a dismissive sigh.


Next week:  Episode 31: Unexpected

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This week's selection of photos is from a couple of recent photo shoots here in Toronto.  

Enjoy!



Welcome to my neighbourhood...

Friends walking to the subway at Broadview

The "red rocket" as the Toronto streetcars are affectionately known as

An interesting little store in my neighbourhood...

Always an eclectic mix at the Danforth Music Hall

TW walking the city in search of great shots

The iconic Christmas tree on Danforth Avenue

Pretty lights on the tree

The remnants of the Pan Am Games at Toronto's Nathan Phillips Square

Afternoon skate at Nathan Phillips Square - Queen & Bay Street

Toronto's ever cool City Hall building - as seen in the Star Trek movies

The Diner on Yonge Street

Atrium view

Winter sky from the inside

The Flatiron building in monochrome - Toronto's downtown


Painted sky with the Gooderham Building

Memory of a distant past now in a parking lot in Toronto's east end

"Seen better days" - Distillery District

Toronto's go-to place for spectacular authentic Mexican fare
Distillery District

"Rivets and girders" - Queen Street East bridge over the Don River 

The winter without snow - Toronto in January








Friday, January 22, 2016

Southern Charms

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If you’ve been following along on my recent blogs you’ll know that after dropping Zach and Sami off with my ex in Florida at Christmas that I drove home alone.  Fortunately for me I love to drive as it gives me time to slow down and explore…and no better place to explore than the South if you ask me.

So what constitutes “the South”?  Great question!  My research led me to an interesting article by Patrick Ottenhoff who published an excellent article in the Atlantic magazineWhere does the South begin?”  He contends that it depends on what lens you’re looking at from – Surveys and Census, Rivers, Religion, Language, Food or Politics…  

As I said it was an easy and fascinating read and it blew away my preconceived notions of the South, in that I had always thought of Charleston and Savannah as the south and had always assumed that the Mason-Dixon line between Pennsylvania and Maryland was the defining line - thank you history books.  

It’s not that he dispelled the theory that these cities are geographically in the south, but he planted a seed that has long been ruminating in my mind about them about how they can and possibly should be perceived in a far different light.  

If you’ve visited either Charleston or Savannah, you notice that they don’t have the same feel as many other southern cities, in fact I would contend, as Patrick does in his article that New Orleans can also be added to these two as it also is more closely aligned to the architecture, social, cultural and historical ties of a long ago European life to that of the south and modern day America.
  
Although I've spent time in all three cities, my favorite is Savannah.  

Whenever I stay in this gorgeous city I always choose the historic district so that I can stroll the myriad of parks and gardens and soak in the architecture and indeed atmosphere of this gem.  As one of the earliest Colonial cities in the United States, Savannah was laid out in 1733 prior to the revolutionary war and as such has a uniquely European feel. 

Although that being said, in my mind it's the epicenter of Antebellum architecture – which combines Georgian, Neo-classical and Greek Revival flourishes in the buildings within the town itself as well as the nearby Plantation houses.  As Georgia’s first capital, and first planned city center the historic district is laid out in a grid which encompasses 22 parks, gardens and squares. Such amazing foresight given the period in which it was developed, and provide a level of intimacy to the neighbourhood immediately around them. These green spaces are home to hundreds of large oak trees all dripping with Spanish moss, and just as you’d imagine a southern city to look and feel.   

As an aside, if you’ve ever read the book or seen the movie “Midnight in the garden of good and evil”, you’ll see Savannah for all its beautiful, albeit eerie self and perhaps worth a watch.

Indelible Tip #1:  When you go one of the highlights of any visit is to visit the Bonaventure Cemetery.  Strange choice one might say?!  Actually you can tell a lot about a city from its cemeteries and this one is literally dripping with history, plus at 160 acres it’s a fantastic walk by the Wilmington river!  

One of its most famous grave sites in the Bonaventure is that of Gracie Watson.  Gracie’s parents ran the Pulaski hotel, which in its heyday was one of the most luxurious hotels in the south and Gracie was the life and soul of the hotel, often dancing, and singing to entertain the guests. Tragically Gracie died of pneumonia in 1889, and her heartbroken parents had her likeness carved and placed atop her grave and surrounded by a wrought iron fence, which, to this day people still leave gifts and messages for her attached to the gate. There is no question that the loss of any child is incredibly sad, but what separates this story from others is that her parents were so consumed with the grief and loss of their beautiful daughter that they moved back to New England from whence they came shortly after her death and never saw Gracie's grave again.  She was orphaned and abandoned if you will, hence the gifts and notes left for her.  Such a tragic story!

Indelible Tip #2:  As I mentioned Savannah’s beauty is encapsulated in its myriad of parks and squares.  It's one of those places that you’re almost in the constant shade as you walk the historic district, which on a warm summer's day is a blessing although the humidity can be a little overwhelming at times.  

One of my personal favorites is to stroll Forsyth Park with its magnificent fountain and wide walkways.  This 30-acre oasis was modelled after the Place de la Concorde in Paris and opened in 1858. Today it's the centerpiece of Savannah's historic district and a wonderful place to people watch. I’m always astounded at the sheer number of wedding parties having their photos taken in the park at any given time, although I guess I shouldn’t be as it's one of the most beautiful places that I can think of to have them done.  I'm always struck that no matter what time of year, nor weather seem to perturb our intrepid wedding parties.  

Hhhmmm, perhaps I should consider moving here!   

Seriously, between the huge number of wandering wedding groups and the eclectic cast of characters who frequent Forsyth Park it’s a fantastic place to people watch.  My suggestion would be to set yourself up on the main thoroughfare leading from Bull Street, settle in and watch the world go by.  

Indelible Tip #3:  Hungry yet?  Alligator Soul is one of my favorite restaurants and I always try and visit whenever I’m in Savannah.  It’s definitely a place that I would highly recommend and has the sort of feel of a crossover between a 1920’s Speak Easy and the Tribeca Grill (one of my NYC favorites!)   This subterranean classic has an eclectic and seasonal menu and always has something to tempt your taste buds, with local Cajun/Creole specialties fused with local fare.    

The other great thing is that if you’re planning on dining there but are vegan or vegetarian the chef will only be too happy to create something unique and special for you.  As you can imagine it has a loyal following so you’ll definitely need to make a reservation in advance.  I personally love the Fried Green Tomatoes and the Bison Short ribs…yum!  I can almost taste these delectable morsels as I write, yes they're that good!  

As you can imagine I’ve barely scratched the surface of this charming city, but if you go it will be an experience that will forever color your view of the South and its innate beauty. 

My advice, as always, is take a camera...  :-)


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“Hanoi Posting”

A series of fictional micro-stories by Terence Wallis

Episode 29: Routine

Phuong waited patiently at the Noi Bai airport as Bill's flight landed from Bangkok.  It was late and Phuong was shocked when he first saw Bill walk toward him, he had visibly aged, his haggard and drawn look reminded Phuong of that all too familiar look of someone directly from a war zone.

Bill endeavoured to greet him warmly, but his exhaustion seemed to seep from every pore of his body as Phuong shook his hand, smiling Bill said  "so Phuong what's been going on here while I've been away?"  They walked in silence to the car in the nearby parking lot, and within seconds of pulling from the lot Bill fell into a deep sleep. Phuong drove through the crush of scooters that besieged the roadways even at this late hour and thought about what lay ahead for Bill...he must warn him.

Bill woke while a start when Phuong gently shook his shoulder upon arrival at his house.  "Sorry mate, I must have dozed off" he smiled sheepishly.  Thanks for the lift, back to our old routine tomorrow?  Phuong replied "chắc chắn, xem bạn vào ngày mai".  At this late hour and with his muddled brain Bill couldn't decipher Phuong or the familiar Vietnamese.  Phuong realizing that it was beyond his friend said "okay, see you in the morning at the Star"

As Bill gathered his bag from the back seat, Phuong turned to him and said  "we must begin our lessons again".  Bill smiled as he closed the door to the car and watched as the taillights of Phuong's car disappeared into the darkness along Cát Linh đường phố.  

Bill tried to imagine surviving in Hanoi without his trusted friend Phuong, "No bloody way he thought to himself".  He turned toward his apartment but didn't noticed the two men sitting on the scooter lingering in the shadows.


Bill unlocked the gate and made his way toward the sanctuary of his apartment, too exhausted to think...


Next week:  Episode 30  Reunited 

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This week's selection of photos is from Savannah (where else?) :-)  If you missed them, you can also check out some of my other photos from Savannah in "Fresh Cut" (click here). 

Enjoy!


TW


Check out the A.T Hun Art Gallery (302 W. Saint Julian Street) for some amazing
and original art from local artists - ask for Chuck Hamilton the owner and artist.  I acquired two great
little piece of original art during this past visit...

The old clock at the city Market at Jefferson and W. Saint Julian Street

I must admit I'm a history geek, and Savannah has lots
of these little gems all around the city

Aligned balconies on River street

Not too shabby for a single family dwelling...

Wonderfully eclectic architecture all facing out onto these
gorgeous and quiet squares and parks

As I said history at every turn...

Originally the home of the Savannah Volunteers, now home to a
wonderful gallery and story

Just one of the many crossroads on Bull street that lead toward Forsyth Park 

The magnificent fountain centerpiece in Forsyth Park 


So many memorials and statues dot the historic district of Savannah - all so grand!

The vast majority of the houses in Savannah have a walk up element
to them, this one is no exception

The famous Chandler Oak tree - it truly is massive!

A little more about the Chandler Oak is as old as Savannah itself and took root in the early 1700's

Everywhere you look there are stately homes, just too beautiful for words
Each house is unique and has a different look and feel, definitely no cookie-cutters here!

Can you imagine waking up to this type of beauty everyday?
This huge building seems so out of place in Savannah - the old Scottish Rite Masonic Center


The Cathedral of Saint John the Baptist (222 E. Harris Street) is stunning!

Loved this little tidbit of history in the Colonial Park Cemetery (201 Abercorn street) in the historic district

A fascinating piece of Revolutionary war history which I uncovered during my visit - who knew?

Under the canopy of another large Oak tree dripping with Spanish Moss

The Waving Girl statue is a monument to Florence Martus, alongside her
trusty collie who was said to wave her handkerchief
to all the passing ships on the river.  Florence was a well known
favourite daughter of Savannahians for over 75 years.

I loved the dramatic sky over the Savannah town hall 

Interesting story of Old Sorrel ~ Weed House.  At one time a department store as well...

Old Sorrel today, you can visit and check out the inside...very cool!