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If you’ve been following along on my recent blogs you’ll know that after dropping Zach and Sami off with my ex in Florida at Christmas that I drove home alone. Fortunately for me I love to drive as it gives me time to slow down and explore…and no better place to explore than the South if you ask me.
So what constitutes “the South”? Great question! My research led me to an interesting article by Patrick Ottenhoff who published an excellent article in the Atlantic magazine “Where does the South begin?” He contends that it depends on what lens you’re looking at from – Surveys and Census, Rivers, Religion, Language, Food or Politics…
As I said it was an easy and fascinating read and it blew away my preconceived notions of the South, in that I had always thought of Charleston and Savannah as the south and had always assumed that the Mason-Dixon line between Pennsylvania and Maryland was the defining line - thank you history books.
It’s not that he dispelled the theory that these cities are geographically in the south, but he planted a seed that has long been ruminating in my mind about them about how they can and possibly should be perceived in a far different light.
If you’ve visited either Charleston or Savannah, you notice that they don’t have the same feel as many other southern cities, in fact I would contend, as Patrick does in his article that New Orleans can also be added to these two as it also is more closely aligned to the architecture, social, cultural and historical ties of a long ago European life to that of the south and modern day America.
Although I've spent time in all three cities, my favorite is Savannah.
Whenever I stay in this gorgeous city I always choose the historic district so that I can stroll the myriad of parks and gardens and soak in the architecture and indeed atmosphere of this gem. As one of the earliest Colonial cities in the United States, Savannah was laid out in 1733 prior to the revolutionary war and as such has a uniquely European feel.
Although that being said, in my mind it's the epicenter of Antebellum architecture – which combines Georgian, Neo-classical and Greek Revival flourishes in the buildings within the town itself as well as the nearby Plantation houses. As Georgia’s first capital, and first planned city center the historic district is laid out in a grid which encompasses 22 parks, gardens and squares. Such amazing foresight given the period in which it was developed, and provide a level of intimacy to the neighbourhood immediately around them. These green spaces are home to hundreds of large oak trees all dripping with Spanish moss, and just as you’d imagine a southern city to look and feel.
As an aside, if you’ve ever read the book or seen the movie “Midnight in the garden of good and evil”, you’ll see Savannah for all its beautiful, albeit eerie self and perhaps worth a watch.
Indelible Tip #1: When you go one of the highlights of any visit is to visit the Bonaventure Cemetery. Strange choice one might say?! Actually you can tell a lot about a city from its cemeteries and this one is literally dripping with history, plus at 160 acres it’s a fantastic walk by the Wilmington river!
One of its most famous grave sites in the Bonaventure is that of Gracie Watson. Gracie’s parents ran the Pulaski hotel, which in its heyday was one of the most luxurious hotels in the south and Gracie was the life and soul of the hotel, often dancing, and singing to entertain the guests. Tragically Gracie died of pneumonia in 1889, and her heartbroken parents had her likeness carved and placed atop her grave and surrounded by a wrought iron fence, which, to this day people still leave gifts and messages for her attached to the gate. There is no question that the loss of any child is incredibly sad, but what separates this story from others is that her parents were so consumed with the grief and loss of their beautiful daughter that they moved back to New England from whence they came shortly after her death and never saw Gracie's grave again. She was orphaned and abandoned if you will, hence the gifts and notes left for her. Such a tragic story!
Indelible Tip #2: As I mentioned Savannah’s beauty is encapsulated in its myriad of parks and squares. It's one of those places that you’re almost in the constant shade as you walk the historic district, which on a warm summer's day is a blessing although the humidity can be a little overwhelming at times.
One of my personal favorites is to stroll Forsyth Park with its magnificent fountain and wide walkways. This 30-acre oasis was modelled after the Place de la Concorde in Paris and opened in 1858. Today it's the centerpiece of Savannah's historic district and a wonderful place to people watch. I’m always astounded at the sheer number of wedding parties having their photos taken in the park at any given time, although I guess I shouldn’t be as it's one of the most beautiful places that I can think of to have them done. I'm always struck that no matter what time of year, nor weather seem to perturb our intrepid wedding parties.
Hhhmmm, perhaps I should consider moving here!
Seriously, between the huge number of wandering wedding groups and the eclectic cast of characters who frequent Forsyth Park it’s a fantastic place to people watch. My suggestion would be to set yourself up on the main thoroughfare leading from Bull Street, settle in and watch the world go by.
Indelible Tip #3: Hungry yet? Alligator Soul is one of my favorite restaurants and I always try and visit whenever I’m in Savannah. It’s definitely a place that I would highly recommend and has the sort of feel of a crossover between a 1920’s Speak Easy and the Tribeca Grill (one of my NYC favorites!) This subterranean classic has an eclectic and seasonal menu and always has something to tempt your taste buds, with local Cajun/Creole specialties fused with local fare.
The other great thing is that if you’re planning on dining there but are vegan or vegetarian the chef will only be too happy to create something unique and special for you. As you can imagine it has a loyal following so you’ll definitely need to make a reservation in advance. I personally love the Fried Green Tomatoes and the Bison Short ribs…yum! I can almost taste these delectable morsels as I write, yes they're that good!
As you can imagine I’ve barely scratched the surface of this charming city, but if you go it will be an experience that will forever color your view of the South and its innate beauty.
My advice, as always, is take a camera... :-)
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“Hanoi Posting”
A series of fictional micro-stories by Terence Wallis
Episode 29: Routine
Phuong waited patiently at the Noi Bai airport as Bill's flight landed from Bangkok. It was late and Phuong was shocked when he first saw Bill walk toward him, he had visibly aged, his haggard and drawn look reminded Phuong of that all too familiar look of someone directly from a war zone.
Bill endeavoured to greet him warmly, but his exhaustion seemed to seep from every pore of his body as Phuong shook his hand, smiling Bill said "so Phuong what's been going on here while I've been away?" They walked in silence to the car in the nearby parking lot, and within seconds of pulling from the lot Bill fell into a deep sleep. Phuong drove through the crush of scooters that besieged the roadways even at this late hour and thought about what lay ahead for Bill...he must warn him.
Bill woke while a start when Phuong gently shook his shoulder upon arrival at his house. "Sorry mate, I must have dozed off" he smiled sheepishly. Thanks for the lift, back to our old routine tomorrow? Phuong replied "chắc chắn, xem bạn vào ngày mai". At this late hour and with his muddled brain Bill couldn't decipher Phuong or the familiar Vietnamese. Phuong realizing that it was beyond his friend said "okay, see you in the morning at the Star"
As Bill gathered his bag from the back seat, Phuong turned to him and said "we must begin our lessons again". Bill smiled as he closed the door to the car and watched as the taillights of Phuong's car disappeared into the darkness along Cát Linh đường phố.
Bill tried to imagine surviving in Hanoi without his trusted friend Phuong, "No bloody way he thought to himself". He turned toward his apartment but didn't noticed the two men sitting on the scooter lingering in the shadows.
Bill unlocked the gate and made his way toward the sanctuary of his apartment, too exhausted to think...
Next week: Episode 30 Reunited
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This week's selection of photos is from Savannah (where else?) :-) If you missed them, you can also check out some of my other photos from Savannah in "Fresh Cut" (click here).
Enjoy!
TW
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Check out the A.T Hun Art Gallery (302 W. Saint Julian Street) for some amazing
and original art from local artists - ask for Chuck Hamilton the owner and artist. I acquired two great
little piece of original art during this past visit... |
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| The old clock at the city Market at Jefferson and W. Saint Julian Street |
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I must admit I'm a history geek, and Savannah has lots
of these little gems all around the city |
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| Aligned balconies on River street |
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| Not too shabby for a single family dwelling... |
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Wonderfully eclectic architecture all facing out onto these
gorgeous and quiet squares and parks |
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| As I said history at every turn... |
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Originally the home of the Savannah Volunteers, now home to a
wonderful gallery and story |
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| Just one of the many crossroads on Bull street that lead toward Forsyth Park |
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| The magnificent fountain centerpiece in Forsyth Park |
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| So many memorials and statues dot the historic district of Savannah - all so grand! |
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The vast majority of the houses in Savannah have a walk up element
to them, this one is no exception |
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| The famous Chandler Oak tree - it truly is massive! |
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| A little more about the Chandler Oak is as old as Savannah itself and took root in the early 1700's |
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| Everywhere you look there are stately homes, just too beautiful for words |
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| Each house is unique and has a different look and feel, definitely no cookie-cutters here! |
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| Can you imagine waking up to this type of beauty everyday? |
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| This huge building seems so out of place in Savannah - the old Scottish Rite Masonic Center |
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| The Cathedral of Saint John the Baptist (222 E. Harris Street) is stunning! |
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| Loved this little tidbit of history in the Colonial Park Cemetery (201 Abercorn street) in the historic district |
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| A fascinating piece of Revolutionary war history which I uncovered during my visit - who knew? |
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| Under the canopy of another large Oak tree dripping with Spanish Moss |
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The Waving Girl statue is a monument to Florence Martus, alongside her
trusty collie who was said to wave her handkerchief
to all the passing ships on the river. Florence was a well known
favourite daughter of Savannahians for over 75 years. |
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| I loved the dramatic sky over the Savannah town hall |
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| Interesting story of Old Sorrel ~ Weed House. At one time a department store as well... |
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| Old Sorrel today, you can visit and check out the inside...very cool! |
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