Friday, December 20, 2013

Not the Orient Express...

As I write this week’s blog I’m in the Parlour Car of the Coast Starlight that runs between Seattle in Washington State (Northwest Pacific) and Los Angeles in California.  We arrived into Seattle around lunchtime yesterday after our exceptionally early flight to Vancouver, and our connection to Seattle.  We were up and out the door from home at 4:30 am with our flight leaving at 6:20 am.  As you can imagine we were all very excited with the prospect of our pending adventure.

Our route from Seattle to San Diego
Both flights were uneventful (always the best type), however the second flight from Vancouver to Seattle was on a small 26-seat propeller plane, which the kids had never experienced so they were a little nervous on our 25-minute from flight from Vancouver to Seattle.  Zach and Sami are very experienced travellers given all the places they've been over the years so only fly with carryon (yes, I've trained them well!)  so once we arrived into Seattle we literally walked from the gate to a waiting taxi for the short ride downtown to our hotel.

Topographically speaking Seattle is quite similar to San Francisco with its rather steep hills and undulating roads.  As you'd imagine from our hotel to the waterfront was a series of these steep declines, so nothing like a good walk after a long flight to loosen your muscles…well, at least that’s what I kept telling the kids. J


After a quick lunch of fish and chips on the waterfront we headed up to Pikes Place Market, to explore. The fish market is world renown not only for its high quality fish and seafood but also for the unique customs.  When anyone buys a fish that’s sitting on ice on the front display the team starts by tossing the fish to the counter, just like a torpedo, the fish then criss-crossed the stall as they toss it back and forth. The “throwing of the fish” is a well known ritual and famous tourist attraction here at the fish market and definitely worth the time to see.

Pike Place Market in Seattle
Luckily Sami had first hand experience with the "throwing of the fish" as she was standing a little close to the guy at the fish market when someone purchased one of the fish. Before she knew it the assistant had picked up a large mackerel and heaved it toward the counter. The first close call was when she was almost struck by his elbow on the follow through, breathing a sigh of relief she turned and smiled at me, just as the assistant at the counter threw it back toward his colleague.  Fortunately her head was turned as the ice and fish slime splattered all over her from the airborne fish as it landed inches from her head, safely back in the hands of the shop assistant. There were lots of “ooh’s and aah’s from the crowd near by as Sami turned a lovely shade of pink from embarrassment.  

We then strolled casually down the street to check out the original Starbucks about two blocks from the market.  Surprisingly it’s a little hole-in-the-wall storefront, and as you can imagine was jammed packed with tourists buying a coffee from the “home” of Starbucks.  It was definitely cool to see the humble beginnings of this now global coffee powerhouse.

Even the buildings are sculptures
We then hiked over to the Space Needle with our latte’s in hand, noting the enormous number of sculptures that litter the city like confetti. I hadn't realized that Seattle was such an artist’s enclave.  With every turn there was another fascinating piece of original artwork or sculpture just waiting to be discovered…all very cool. 

The commanding views of Seattle and surrounding mountain ranges from the Space Needle were well worth the visit, especially as the sun was shining on Mount Rainier off in the distance.

We hadn't realized that this weekend Seattle was playing host to the NCAA Women’s Volleyball tournament, and so when we got back to our hotel the University of Washington marching band serenaded us as we entered the hotel as this was their official headquarters.

It had been a long day and with most teenagers they think mostly of their stomachs so no surprise as soon as we got back to the hotel they were both asking about dinner…yeah, and it was still only 4:15 pm.  J


I had booked us into the Icon Grill on 5th Avenue which has been home to many different things over the years including a movie theatre and most recently a Necktie manufacturing company – go figure?   Today it has a wonderful collection of blown glass; with lots of local artists work covering the walls.  Exhausted we fell into our beds at 7:50 pm, and not rousing until almost 7:00 am this morning, nothing like a good catch up from a big day travel and sightseeing!

Mt Rainier keeping a watchful eye on the city of Seattle
As I type this weeks edition I'm enjoying a wine and cheese in the Parlour car of the Coast Starlight with my sleeper car compatriots.  Its no surprise that they come from all walks of life and a broad range of places within the US, strangely it feels like I'm in the movie North by Northwest with Cary Grant.  Its certainly a great way to travel if you have some time on your hands and a penchant for people watching. 

Strangely, I’ve never slept in a actual sleeper car on a train before, even when I backpacked in Europe.  However, like the kids I'm excited by the thought of being slowly rocked to sleep by the clitter-clatter of the train as he heads south towards warmer climes. 

One of the strong memories I have as a child is the mournful sound of the train whistle as it passed through our town in the early hours each morning.  I distinctly remember being sick as a young child and my mum sitting by me in a chair all night long, the glow of her cigarette in the dark and that long and somber train whistle echoing in the distance.  It's strange what you remember...

Earlier this morning we boarded the train at the King Street station in downtown Seattle, quickly settling into our family sleeper car for the train journey to Los Angeles and then San Diego where we plan to spend Christmas.

We then have four days of R&R in San Diego at the end of our train journey.  Why San Diego you ask, well for starters the weather is more akin to Australia at Christmas with sunshine and 20C + weather, now throw in a beach and an large amount of eucalyptus trees and viola the next best thing to Australia in North America.

Only four days till my book comes out...not sure about you but I'm EXCITED!  J








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